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South Indian Gold Jewellery

(साउथ इंडियन गोल्ड ज्वेलरी)

South Indian gold jewellery, made in a Jaipur workshop: temple jewellery with Lakshmi, the peacock and the lotus raised in gold, and the mango mala — the manga malai — its mangoes linked into a long haram.

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Two traditions

Why a Jaipur workshop makes South Indian jewellery

South India's gold jewellery grew up around its temples; Rajasthan's around its courts. We make two of the South's best-known pieces — temple jewellery and the mango mala — the Jaipur way: one piece at a time, the back finished as carefully as the front.

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Side by side

Why South Indian gold looks different

Not because of its purity — because of how the gold is worked.

South Indian

Shows the gold itself, raised in relief.

Often given a darkened, antique finish.

Red and green stones, set sparingly.

Rajasthani

Covers the gold with kundan and polki.

Fired meena enamel on the back.

Bright, polished gold.

The same 22K

91.6% gold in Chennai as in Jaipur.

More copper in the alloy gives a warmer, redder shade.

Names

South Indian jewellery names

The pieces of a South Indian bridal set, by the names you will hear in Chennai, Hyderabad and Bengaluru.

At the neck

Manga malai
A long necklace of linked mango shapes — the mango mala.
Kasu mala
A necklace of gold coins, often stamped with Lakshmi.
Lakshmi haram
A long necklace with the goddess at its centre.
Addigai
A broad choker, usually set with rubies and emeralds.
Guttapusalu
A necklace hung with clusters of tiny pearls — a Telugu bridal favourite.
Thali
The wedding pendant on its chain — the South Indian mangalsutra.

At the head, ears, arms and waist

Nethi chutti
The South Indian maang tikka, worn at the parting.
Jhimki
South India's jhumka: a bell hanging below the lobe.
Mattal
A chain from the earring into the hair that carries its weight.
Vanki
An armlet shaped to the upper arm, often with a peacock or Lakshmi.
Oddiyanam
The bride's broad gold waist belt.
Jadanagam
A long ornament running down the bride's plait, often in the shape of a serpent's hood at the top.

Questions

South Indian jewellery questions

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Is gold cheaper in South India?

The gold itself costs much the same everywhere: city rates all follow the same international price and the national benchmark that IBJA publishes, and differ by small amounts set by local jewellers' associations. What differs a great deal from shop to shop is the making charge — compare that, not the rate. See today's rate.

What goes into a South Indian bridal set?

Usually a nethi chutti at the parting, jhimkis with mattal chains, a short necklace and a long haram — often a manga malai or a Lakshmi haram — vankis on the arms, an oddiyanam at the waist and a jadanagam down the plait.

Can a South Indian necklace be set with kundan?

Yes. A mango mala or a haram can be set with kundan or polki in the Jaipur way, which gives a South Indian shape a Rajasthani face — useful for a family that wants one piece for both sides of a wedding.

Where does South Indian temple jewellery come from?

Its best-known centre is Nagercoil in Tamil Nadu, whose temple jewellery was registered as a Geographical Indication in 2007–08. The dance costume of Bharatanatyam carried it from the temple to the stage.