Chaand Diamond Polki Hasli

Jewellery details

A chaand diamond polki hasli: chaand rings of uncut polki, a pearl set in each, on a collar that holds its shape.

Purity

18K gold

Technique

Polki

Stones

Uncut polki throughout, kundan-set — a ring of it to each link — with a pearl in every centre and polki ovals bordering both edges

Meena

Green, on the reverse of the upper row

A hasli holds its own shape, and a chaand diamond polki hasli carries uncut polki the whole way round it. Each link is a chaand — a moon — a ring of gold paved with polki — natural diamond left as the crystal grew, flat-faced and chosen by eye rather than cut to a formula — with a pearl set at its centre, and the rings overlap so the collar reads as one continuous turn rather than a row of separate stones. Above and below them run borders of small polki ovals, each collared in a twist of gold wire, and the lower edge finishes in pear-shaped drops. The setting is jadai: every stone pressed into lac and held with 24K foil, which is how kundan has always been done — and why the lac is never counted in the weight we quote. Behind the upper row the enamel is left green, the two ends close on gold hooks, and the fit is eased on a gold dori rather than set to a gauge. Made to order on one bench in Jaipur.

Uncut natural diamond, split on its own planes. Every piece is made to order and built entirely by hand — weeks of work on a single bench, and no two come out quite alike. The stones are real uncut diamond, what the trade calls polki, held in gold the traditional way rather than cut and clawed.

Check it yourself: Uncut diamonds · BIS hallmark · IBJA gold rate · GTL Jaipur gem reports